Wyndham Wisdom

Branson's Best Tables

Skip the chain restaurants in favor of some real Ozarks cooking--plus shiitakes, tzatziki and tiramisu

Vacationing in the Ozarks? You'll soon find that most roads lead to Branson, Missouri. Specifically, they lead to Highway 76, a.k.a. Country Music Boulevard, a.k.a. "the Strip." It's packed with music theaters, miniature golf courses, knick-knack shops and so many hotels you have to laugh at the sign that reads: "Last motel for 500 miles. Ha!"

Branson is also chockablock with chain restaurants, where the food may be fine but regional flavor is nonexistent. For a more authentic eating experience, follow the locals--sometimes for a nice drive out of town--to find romantic dining à deux, rustic mom 'n' pop cafés and ethnic treats, all in the Ozarks.

OZARKS NOUVEAU
Since Bleu Olive opened in 2008, its inventive Mediterranean menu and sprawling modern space have been the buzz of the dining scene. While the kitchen dabbles in fusion (pizzettas!), it also does traditional very well. Case in point: an unusually delicate moussaka, the Greek meat pie layered with zucchini and potato. Another example is capellini pasta, perfectly al dente and tossed with shrimp, mussels and calamari in pungent garlic lemon butter. Be sure to start with the assortment of Mediterranean spreads as an appetizer (and skip dessert--while the baklava looked striking, it under delivered in the taste department). 204 N. Commercial St.; 417-332-2538; dinner for two, $60*

GOOD TIMING
There are several down-home spots at the east end of the Strip in Branson's hilly, old-fashioned downtown, including the Farmhouse and the Branson Café. Clockers narrowly tops the list, thanks to its unhurried feel. The décor is a mix of . . . well, clocks, along with vintage diner photos. At breakfast, the sunny-side-up eggs are golden-yolked fresh. Thick sausage patties come with thicker Texas-style French toast and the hash browns have a nice hint of onion. The quick-to-laugh waiters have a bit of sass but they're ready with refills and offer a "go cup" before you can ask. 103 S. Commercial St.; 417-335-2328; breakfast for two, $15

A RIVER RUNS BY IT
Set under a huge bluff on the Finley River near the town of Ozark (about 20 miles north of Branson), the outdoor terraces at the Riverside Inn are a wonderful spot for a warm-weather drink. Stop by this former speakeasy on a busy summer evening and you'll feel as if you're in the middle of a Fitzgerald novel; on a quiet winter night, the labyrinth of mural-covered rooms (painted by founding owner Howard Garrison) seems more like the setting of a Hitchcock film.

Riverside's fried chicken, legitimately legendary, shares the menu with such American classics as prime rib, frogs' legs, tender fried chicken livers and warm, sugar-dusted corn fritters. Warning: Be careful not to fill up on the crisp bread sticks, relish tray, sharp cheddar cheese and chicken-noodle soup, included with all entrees. 2629 N. Riverside Rd., Ozark; 417-581-7051; dinner for two, $90

PRIME LOCATION
The site rivals the bite at the venerable Candlestick Inn, where the glass-walled dining room and deck offer exhilarating views of Lake Taneycomo and the glittering lights of Branson Landing, the splashy new shopping and entertainment complex across the water. This is a longtime favorite for special occasions, but turnover in the kitchen (and management) means the food can be inconsistent. Service is attentive, however, and the wine list spans the globe.

The current French-trained chef's menu emphasizes big, meaty classics--chateaubriand, prime rib and a 14-oz. rib-eye. But there are other winners as well. Romaine salad comes in a showy vertical wedge tied with a leek, and a sprightly chutney made with Granny Smith apples kicks the pork loin chop up a notch. Finish your nightcap on the terrace while you soak up the view. 127 Taney St.; 417-334-3633; dinner for two, $100

BARONIAL SPLENDOR
For a special Sunday brunch, the Worman House at Big Cedar Lodge, about 10 miles south of Branson, offers an unbeatable combination: Soaring windows overlook a sheltered cove on Table Rock Lake, and the array of choices will keep you full for days.

The 1920s dining room, in a restored mansion, is decorated with handcrafted chandeliers and stuffed game animals. Corks pop regularly for free-flowing mimosas, and the huge buffet offers smoked salmon with trimmings, oysters on the half shell, omelets made to order and such savory dishes as duck breast, beef tenderloin and orange roughy. Save room for sweets like mini-parfaits of apple caramel mousse and tiny teacups of tiramisu. 612 Devil's Pool Rd., Ridgedale; 800-225-6343; brunch for two, $64

OLD-SCHOOL OPTION
Locals craving pizza head to Mr. G's for sizzling Chicago-style slices. The menu also lists thin-crust pizzas, sandwiches and pasta, but cast-iron deep-dish pans crowd most tables. Mr. G's is a no-frills joint: The frathouse décor relies heavily on beer company giveaways, and the bar sports year-round Christmas lights. Diners sensitive to secondhand smoke may want their orders to go. 202½ N. Commercial St.; 417-335-8156; dinner for two, $30

FRENCH TWIST
When the rooster crows, find your way to Billy Gail's Café, where Billy and Gail Blong serve "pancakes the size of hubcaps" in a rambling, wood-sided building off the west end of the Strip. Inside, the feel is warm and inviting--think red-checked tablecloths, fleamarket collectibles and a toy bowl for kids. Billy came up with the surprisingly light French Cakes, pecan pancakes cooked once, dipped in French toast batter and then returned to the griddle. The standards aren't neglected: Biscuits arrive big and flaky, eggs are done right and sides of bacon and sausage are generous. 5291 State Hwy. 265; 417-338-8883; breakfast for two, $15

BREW AND A VIEW
Cold beer and great views of Table Rock Lake help the Altenhof Inn fill its double-decker patio with a casual flip-flop crowd. Though it's billed as a pizzeria, the Altenhoff proudly claims an "out-of-the-ordinary" German flair. How about a Bavarian Highlight pizza--topped with bratwurst or knackwurst, onions and kraut? If that sounds just a little too, er, special, there are plenty of other options, like salads, burgers and two types of schnitzels. ("Weiner" is the traditional breaded veal cutlet; "Jager" is topped with a creamy mushroom sauce.) 680 Jake's Creek Trail; 417-338-5091; lunch for two, $25

OPA!
Tucked in a "holler" off the main highway about three miles north of Branson West, Papouli's island-blue siding, twinkly lights and Greek-American comfort food have beckoned the lake crowd for two decades. On the Greek side of the menu, dolmades (stuffed grape leaves) come with a subtle lemon sauce. The make-your-own gyro dinner platter is a generous portion of gyro meat, grilled pita and the usual trimmings (the thick, sour-cream-style tzatziki could use a tad more tziki). On the American side, try the prime rib slathered in garlic. Don't forget to join in the refrain of "Opa!" when the flaming Kaseri cheese appetizer arrives. 725 State Hwy. 248, Reeds Spring; 417-272-8243; dinner for two, $60

NIGHT LIFE
On a typical Branson evening, visitors migrate over to the Moon River Grill to hobnob with Andy Williams after his show. Meanwhile, the Strip's musicians and backstage crews are hanging out at a handful of their own spots, including Rocky's Lounge. Dark and smoky, this downtown throwback is home to a boisterous crowd of lounge lizards who come here for the good drinks and avoid the bad bar food. There's usually someone providing live music, but whoever's playing, the crowd at Rocky's is serious about its mission: Have some hooch and a hoot. 120 N. Sycamore St.; 417-335-4765

*Prices cover a three-course meal for two without drinks, tax or tip.

STAY

RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS IN BRANSON INCLUDE:

BLUEGREEN WILDERNESS CLUB AT BIG CEDAR
ROARK VACATION RESORT
SILVERLEAF'S HOLIDAY HILLS
WYNDHAM BRANSON

For more information, visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476