Wyndham Wisdom

Chillin' In Newport

Winter is bargain season in the land of the Vanderbilts

From the days of the Gilded Age, the port city of Newport on Rhode Island's Narragansett Bay has been the fanciful summer backdrop for America's richest and occasionally most famous. In the late Victorian period, it was said that Newport's summer residents--with names like Vanderbilt and Astor--possessed as much as 80 percent of the country's wealth. Beginning in the 1850s, these moneyed folk built their kingly "cottages" here and came to bask in the sunshine and stroll the city's cobblestone streets and sandy beaches. Newport has been synonymous with summer ever since.

But Newport's high season also means long lines and gridlocked streets (mostly  packed with buses and day-trippers). Why not sidestep the commotion and visit when parking spaces, bar stools and harborside dining tables free up? In winter, the hotels, spas and restaurants also cut prices--but there are still festivals, mansion tours and great shopping. "Newport in winter has a completely different, romantic feel," says Evan Smith, who heads up the Newport Visitors Bureau. "You can really appreciate the city without all the hassles."

HOUSE CALLS

The New England chill doesn't mean you have to shut yourself in. Because temperate breezes blow in off the water, it's rarely too cold in Newport to stroll around the Point and Historic Hill, sections of town where the streets lead down to the waterfront. Here you'll find the country's largest concentration of Colonial-era homes--many of them saltbox houses painted in crimson, slate and yellow, with massive chimneys and wrought-iron trim, set against a spire-dotted skyline.

Less than half a mile north on Memorial Boulevard is the Bellevue Avenue mansion district. In winter, three of the best-known mansions--the Breakers, the Elms and Marble House--deck the halls for the holidays with festive décor and dining tables set with period silver and china. The Astors' mansion, Beechwood, favors such Victorian traditions as waltzing and parlor games, and holds an extravagant 1891 Victorian Christmas Feast that's a delightful blend of history and theater.

This year marks the 38th "Christmas in Newport," a citywide holiday celebration that includes a reenactment of The Polar Express, a harbor lights parade of boats, candlelit tours of houses, and public caroling throughout December. The city also sponsors First Night Newport, an artist-friendly festival that culminates with a New Year's Eve party. That's followed by Winterfest, which will celebrate its 21st anniversary this February with horse-drawn hayrides, sand sculptures, a chili cook-off, a city-wide scavenger hunt, an ice-sculpting competition and a children's fair. Who said Newport is quiet in winter?

BUNDLE UP

Parallel to the mansion district is the Cliff Walk, a national recreation trail that lines the dramatic precipice between the historic houses and the Atlantic Ocean. The 3½-mile trail is especially beautiful in winter, as roiling waves crash upon the rocky outcrops. It's a special place where Newport's rugged natural beauty merges with its architectural richness.

For more outdoor activities, head to the Norman Bird Sanctuary in neighboring Middletown. Many of its seven miles of hiking trails provide fine views of the Atlantic. Winter, when the trees have lost their foliage, brings excellent bird-watching, and in December and January you can go out on an official Owl Prowl.

Another cold-weather highlight is the Sovereign Bank Family Skating Center, opened in 2005 just steps from the harbor. The spacious outdoor rink holds 150 skaters at a time, and on a sunny day you can count on that much company. Rent blades or just grab a hot chocolate and toast the cheery holiday vibe.

CITY OF FIRSTS

To learn more of Newport's history--inside--stop by the Touro Synagogue, completed in 1763. The oldest synagogue in America, it's a symbol of Rhode Island's epic quest for religious freedom; the congregation dates back 100 years prior to its founding. Also worth visiting: the 1747 Redwood Library and Athenaeum, America's oldest lending library. Designed in the Italian Renaissance style, it was the first classical public building in this country. The oldest section, today called the Harrison Room, still houses most of the library's original books, purchased in London in the mid 18th century.

The International Tennis Hall of Fame at the Newport Casino is the site of the first U.S. National Championships (later known as the U.S. Open) in 1881. The manicured grass courts and shingled wooden buildings recall the beginnings of tennis in America, while the museum's artifacts, vintage video and interactive exhibits provide a historical context.

Less than a mile away is Saint Mary's, a church officially dedicated in 1852 and the oldest Catholic parish in Rhode Island. In 1953, 800 people looked on as John F. Kennedy married Jacqueline Bouvier here. Meanwhile, a crowd of 3,000 waited outside for the newlyweds to emerge.

After soaking up all that history, spend a cozy evening at the White Horse Tavern. The gambrel-roofed landmark, built as a home in the 1650s and converted in 1673, is the oldest continuously operating tavern in the country--and one of Newport's most heralded establishments. The cavernous, crackling fireplaces set a romantic stage for a hearty New England meal. It's easy to see why Rhode Island Monthly awarded it "best table in winter."

KICK BACK

In keeping with Newport's long-held reputation as an elite and luxurious vacation spot, the city's spa scene is flourishing. Tucked away on its own private island, the Stillwater Spa (1 Goat Island; 401-851-3225) at the Hyatt Regency Newport specializes, not surprisingly, in sea-salt therapies. At age 82, the venerable Hotel Viking (1 Bellevue Ave.; 401-847-3300) might be up there in years, but its Spa Terre is youthful and exciting, with such exotic treatments as a Thai herbal heat energizer and a Fijian milk-and-honey wrap. It also offers an Atlantic seaweed body mask and a Seaside Salt Glow. The lovely Spa Vuré (25 America's Cup Ave.; 401-619-2532) transports you from the bustle of Newport to a more placid world. The peaceful décor and relaxing music enhance the services, which range from therapeutic to medical cosmetology.

EAT

FLUKE WINE BAR & KITCHEN
A casual, New American eatery that overlooks
the harbor on Bowen's Wharf. The adventurous
menu is matched by an impressive wine list,
creative cocktails and a charming staff. The
seafood paella is excellent. 41 Bowen's Wharf;
401-849-7778; dinner for two, $70*

SALVATION CAFE
One of the city's funkiest restaurants,
named for its Salvation Army-obtained
furnishings, is a short walk from Thames
Street. The young, jeans-clad waiters
serve dishes like truffle mac & cheese
and chickpea vindaloo with lemon coconut
rice; the menu changes seasonally.
140 Broadway; 401-847-2620;
dinner for two, $60

PERRO SALADO
It looks like a robust Colonial tavern, but it's
actually an upscale cantina with a trendy
bar and a fresh-Mex menu--try the
chipotle shrimp and the blue-corn-crusted
calamari. 19 Charles St.; 401-619-4777;
dinner for two, $50

WHITE HORSE TAVERN
Originally constructed in 1652, this pub
became the birthplace of the businessman's
lunch in 1708, when Newport's city
councillors charged their meals to the
public treasury. It remains a beloved
dining institution. 26 Marlborough St.;
401-849-3600; dinner for two, $90
*Prices cover a meal for two, not including drinks, tax or tip.

STAY

RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS IN NEWPORT INCLUDE:

WYNDHAM BAY VOYAGE INN
THE WELLINGTON
OCEAN CLIFF I & II
AMERICA'S CUP INN

NON-RCI-AFFILIATED HOTELS:

HOTEL VIKING
This luxury hotel on Newport's Historic
Hill got a $6 million face-lift in 2007.
1 Bellevue Ave.; 401-847-3300;
hotelviking.com; doubles from $119

199 SPRING STREET
Exchange the foulards and colonial prints
for the more contemporary rooms of this
Pearls boutique hotel. 41 Pelham St.;
401-848-0061; pearlsofnewport.com;
doubles from $175

FRANCIS MALBONE HOUSE
A centrally located B&B whose 20 guest
rooms could belong in a late-18th-century
mansion. 392 Thames St.; 800-846-0392;
malbone.com; doubles from $99

THE CHANLER AT CLIFF WALK
Impeccably appointed, the 20 guest rooms
have jacuzzis, working fireplaces and heated
bathroom floors--perfect for winter.
117 Memorial Blvd.; 866-793-5664;
thechanler.com; doubles from $275

VANDERBILT HALL HOTEL
A multimillion-dollar transformation in
2007 reinstated this elegantly sophisticated
inn to its former glory; it has a commanding
view of the harbor. 41 Mary St.;
888-826-4255; vanderbilthall.com;
doubles from $159

CASTLE HILL INN & RESORT
Set on a 40-acre peninsula, with extraordinary
water views, a private beach and stand-alone
Beach Cottages. 590 Ocean Dr.; 888-466-1355;
castlehillinn.com; doubles from $209

ROSE ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE
Sleep over in the two museum bedrooms of this
restored turn-of-the-century lighthouse.
401-847-4242; roseislandlighthouse.org; $175