Wyndham Wisdom

Nassau Nice and Easy

The Bahamian capital moves beyond a mere port of call

Most visitors to the Bahamas come to Nassau, on New Providence Island, and for good reason. The capital of this beautiful archipelago is full of history, culture and some adventure--well, dancing flamingos and dolphin swims, at least. And the iridescent green water and quiet white-sand beaches don't hurt. Only an hour's hop from Miami, Nassau is an easy place to visit--and to stay awhile.

EXPLORE THE PAST
British rule here ended in 1973. But after three centuries, the English influence is still evident. In Parliament Square, you can watch the ceremonial Changing of the Guard in front of the government's bright pink colonial buildings. Then there's the left-hand driving rule, which makes renting a car a bit of a challenge. No worries: Shuttles run to and from most hotels, and small buses called jitneys charge $1 for a stop on their loop. A taxi could be money well spent, since many drivers have completed a national history course. "If you see a 'Bahamahost' ticker, it means these folks are actually more like tour guides," says driver Romeo Farrington.

Guide or no, Nassau's downtown has a rich trove of historic attractions, like the Bahamas Historical Society Museum and the Nassau Public Library & Museum, which houses a collection of colonial documents and artifacts. You can travel back to the golden age of piracy (the early 1700s) at the Pirates of Nassau museum (pirates-of-nassau.com; $12). As it happens, Blackbeard once ruled the seas around New Providence. And there's a fantastic view from nearby Fort Fincastle, where the replica cannons seem to be aimed at incoming cruise ships.

For a meditative break, head up the road to the Queen's Staircase. Slaves carved these steps directly from rock in the 18th century. The steep stairs descend into a quiet, shady alcove surrounded by stone walls and waterfalls.

CABLE BEACH
A few miles west of downtown are the resort-lined white-sand beaches of Cable Beach, the island's most developed--and fun-filled--area. Come here to play Columbus and seek out your own undiscovered spot of public beach. Caves Beach, a crescent of soft sand blissfully free of crowds, can be reached by taxi or shuttle. Or check out festive Goodman's Bay and Saunders Bay, where you might find live reggae music and islanders selling traditional dishes like conch or peas and rice.

VISITORS WELCOME
Many Bahamians arrived as slaves from western Africa, and despite the centuries of colonial rule, they managed to preserve much of their age-old culture. The People-to-People program connects visitors with locals, letting them swap life stories, often over a home-cooked meal. (For more information, call 242-328-7810.) If you're lucky you'll get Lesley Pinder, who makes a mean conch fritter.

To learn about Junkanoo, a joyous Mardi Gras-like parade started by slaves as a late-night secret party, head to Nassau's Educulture Museum (31 West St.). Participants spend months making colorful crepe-paper costumes and learning steps. Though the festival falls on Boxing Day (December 26) and New Year's, it's not hard to track down a mini-parade staged for tourists, complete with cowbells, whistles and goatskin drums.

EAT LOCAL
The Bahamians' undeniable friendliness makes it possible to go where they go and, more importantly, eat where they eat. One of the best options can be found on Arawak Cay, a small spit of land off Cable Beach. Every weekend, islanders and tourists alike flock here for a fish fry, and cooks at dozens of tiny shacks churn out lightly battered cracked conch and spicy conch fritters. Don't miss Goldie's famous Sky Juice, a potent gin and coconut-water tipple. At Potter's Cay, the daily fish market near the base of the bridge, you can pick up super-fresh conch salad and chowder for lunch.

The recently reopened Coco-nuts makes an excellent fish stew--big chunks of fresh grouper in thick gravy, served with a goat-pepper sauce, as well as buttery grits and Johnny cake. Poop Deck East is another great spot for just-caught seafood. Check out what's available in the glass case on your way in, and order fruity rum cocktails to sip on the wooden deck overlooking the marina.

PARADISE ISLAND
Four-mile-long Paradise Island is essentially a suburb of greater Nassau. Connected since 1976 by bridge, the resort community has since changed owners many times. The island has some exceptional hotels (the James Bond movie Casino Royale was filmed at the One&Only Ocean Club), a pretty 12th-century cloister now used for weddings, and one of the best beaches in the Bahamas--Cabbage Beach, a two-mile stretch bordered by palms and sea grapes.

But the main attraction here is the over-the-top, 2,900-room Atlantis resort. The baroque lobby has bronze statues, marble floors and gilded murals. Sharks and piranhas cruise around a glass-walled aquarium downstairs. Next door you'll find a casino, then a mini-mall filled with names like Gucci, Ferragamo, Façonnable, Bulgari and Versace.

The grounds of this mythical kingdom are no less extravagant. The marina connects to a shop- and restaurant-filled boardwalk, with celebrity chains like Mesa Grill and Nobu. There's also a 141-acre water park called Aquaventure, where one waterslide sends you through a shark tank inside a stretch of clear tube. While it's no eco-resort, it is a whole lot of fun. (Non-guest day passes cost $105.)

NATURE CALLS
Across the road from Atlantis, ferries make the 25-minute trip to Blue Lagoon Island, a private island turned into a Bahamian ocean park. Trainers put a team of Atlantic bottlenose dolphins through their paces, getting them to kiss, dance, clap, shout and do the "foot push," in which a pair of dolphins propel a volunteer audience member through the water by the heels (dolphinencounters.com; $98).

Back in Nassau, Ardastra Gardens & Zoo recreates the natural habitats of nearly 300 species of animals (ardastra.com; $15). There are iguanas, Australian black swans, trumpet hornbills, capuchin monkeys, macaws and an African crane that thinks it's a peacock. Many of the creatures roam the grounds, where bananas, mangos and breadfruit grow. The favored residents are the flamingos, who awkwardly bop around until it's time for their daily show. A retired general appears and shouts marching orders until the normally shy animals dance. This bizarre and oddly captivating show has been performed since the 1950s.

ALL IN THE FAMILY
New Providence is within easy reach of several smaller "out" islands. A daily "fast ferry" drops passengers off on Harbour Island, home to some of the Bahamas' best restaurants. Or you can take a 25-minute flight (about $200) to lovely Bimini.

Though it's only 50 miles from Florida, the island feels remote. (The last scene in Silence of the Lambs, when Hannibal Lecter calls Clarissa from a desolate pay phone, was filmed here.)

Hemingway often fished in Bimini--it's considered the birthplace of modern sportfishing--and there's still plenty of beer-fueled talk about the one that got away. But it's also known for gorgeous beaches, great diving and, since 2006, the island's first luxury accommodations, Bimini Bay Resort.

Still hungry for more of the Bahamas? No worries--there are 700 more islands left to explore. In other words, you'll definitely have to come back.

EAT

COCO-NUTS
Conch stew, "boil fish" and rum
cocktails are the stars at this relaxed
restaurant near the ocean. Bay St.
across from Western Esplanade Beach;
242-322-6330; lunch for two, $30*

POOP DECK EAST
Bahamian seafood prepared as you like
it (and served with peas and rice or
fresh vegetables) is the specialty at
this casual waterfront restaurant.
E. Bay St.; 242-393-8175;
dinner for two, $65

SHOAL RESTAURANT
A friendly down-home vibe and an
authentic menu that features okra
soup, cracked conch and crisp
grouper fingers. Nassau St. near
Poinciana Dr.; 242-323-4400;
lunch for two, $35

AMICI
A trattoria with big-window beach views,
serving upscale Italian dishes (fettuccine
alfredo, Caesar salad)--a nice break from
conch fritters. Sheraton Cable Beach;
242-327-6000; dinner for two, $100*
* Prices cover a meal for two, not including drinks, tax or tip.

STAY

RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS IN NASSAU INCLUDE:

PARADISE ISLAND HARBOUR RESORT
CLUB LAND'OR "A LAND'OR INTERNATIONAL RESORT"
SANDYPORT BEACHES RESORT

For more information, visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476