Wyndham Wisdom

Ski Country Summer (Vermont)

Less hot tub, more swimming hole-and other warm weather realities at Vermont's big ski resorts

THE SNOW MAY BE LONG GONE, but at many of Vermon's mountain resorts, the lifts - and the good times - keep cranking. Over the last decade these five ski havens have found new life after spring's big melt. Once the moguls disappear, that long, bumpy run moonlights as a mountain-bike trail. Snow-ringed hot tubs surrender to spring-fed swimming holes. Fireside dinners are replaced by meals alfresco (maple-chipotle chicken under the stars, anyone?). One other change: the bill. Lodging rates in summer can drop by 70 percent compared to busy winter weeks. There is, alas, one thing that can't be altered: The summer season is excruciatingly short. By mid-August, wetland maples show the first red blushes of fall. So what are you waiting for?

MOUNT SNOW
Antiques and adrenaline boosts

The state's southernmost major ski resort puts visitors squarely in the heart of photo-friendly New England, with its covered bridges, winding back roads and weathered red barns. The nearby towns of Wilmington and West Dover are home to a bevy of inns and antiques shops. The resort itself has two floyal camps: golfers and mountain bikers. Golf lovers flock to the Original Golf School, one of the country's earliest golf academies (800-240-2555). Seasoned mountain bikers swarm over a 30-mile network of challenging lift-served trails. Another 100 miles of gentler paths crisscross the forest and farmlands nearby. A mountain-biking school can show you how to tear up hills and through streambeds. 800-245-7669; mountsnow.com

Play

GREEN MOUNTAIN FLAGSHIP CO.
Go for a swim or paddle a rented canoe or kayak on Lake Whitingham, an unspoiled eight mile-long oasis surrounded by green hills.
802-464-2975;
greenmountainflagship.com

TADDINGERS
Stop by this outfitter for fishing gear, advice and guided trips in search of trout on the Upper Deerfield River.
Rte. 100, Wilmington;
taddingers.com; 800-528-3961

Eat

THE WHITE HOUSE OF WILMINGTON
This 1915-built summer home is now a romantic inn and restaurant with mountain views.
800-541-2135;
whitehouseinn.com; dinner for two, $100*

DOT'S DINER
Order the berry pancakes at this legendary breakfast joint.
3 W. Main St., Wilmington;
802-464-7284; breakfast for two, $15

STRATTON
Vermont's little slice of Europe, cobblestoned and car-free

This European-style village in the southern part of the state was ahead of its time when it opened as a year-round destination resort in 1961. Austrian Emo Henrich, who was both the ski-school director and the founder of a popular oompah band, the Stratton Mountain Boys, helped give the resort its decidedly Tyrolean bent. The pedestrian only cobblestoned village makes a great home base for forays both active (golf, tennis and trails) and more consumer-driven. The designer outlets of Manchester (Armani, Coach, J. Crew) are about 30 minutes away. To indoctrinate the next generation into your favored sport, there are stellar instructional camps at the 27-hole Stratton Golf Club and the Gunterman Tennis School. Video analysis helps adults brush up their game, too. 800-787-2886; stratton.com

Play

BRITISH SCHOOL OF FALCONRY
Learn how to handle a Harris's Hawk and, after the introductory class, hit the trails with your feathered friend. Equinox Resort, Manchester; 802-362-7873; from $89

TAKE A HIKE
Not up for a daylong trek but yearning for summit views? Ride the gondola to the top, then walk about a mile to the old fire tower.

Eat

VERDE
This village restaurant wins raves for its innovative Mediterranean menu.
802-297-9200; dinner for two, $100

THE SEASONED PALETTE'S GARDEN CAFE
Take a snack break from the outletshop frenzy while overlooking the Southern Vermont Arts Center's sculpture garden
2522 West Rd., Manchester; 802-366-8298; lunch for two, $21

KILLINGTON
Fully loaded, with 50 miles of mountain trails

Though without a full-fledged base village, this sprawling seven-peak resort area - the East's largest - still has plenty of affordable places to eat and stay along its access road. An extensive network of lift-served trails crisscrosses the mountains; kid-pleasing attractions range from waterslides to miniature golf and climbing walls. The area also plays host to annual wine, music and film festivals, and is close to such New England havens as Woodstock, a scenic 13-mile drive away. Perhaps most important, golfers can choose among more than a dozen courses including Green Mountain, one of the state's best.
802-422-6200; killington.com

Play

BLACK'S BACK COUNTRY ADVENTURES
Runs guided canoe trips and fly fishing clinics.
802-770-9903; vtadventuretours.com

EQUESTRIAN CENTER,
MOUNTAIN TOP INN & RESORT
Canter about these 350 acres. 800-445-2100; mountaintopinn.com

Eat

HEMINGWAY'S
A former stagecoach stop that turns out the area's best meals.
802-422-3886; hemingwaysrestaurant.com dinner for two, $120

LOOKOUT TAVERN
A local lunch favorite, with deck views of Killington Peak.
802-422-5665; lunch for two, $20

STOWE
A classic mountain gets a once-in-a-lifetime addition

Stowe has been a summer destination since the mid-19th century, when it began attracting city dwellers with its clean mountain air and stirring views of the state's tallest peak, 4,393-foot-tall Mount Mansfield. But until this year, the actual resort, 10 miles from town, had little to offer summer travelers. That's all changed with the development of Spruce Peak at Stowe, a massive $400-million project that has brought the slopes a luxury hotel, spa treatments, mountain homes and a performing arts center. Oh, and there's also a Bob Cupp - designed golf course that wraps around Peregrine Lake. Back in town, you can pedal, skate or walk the Stowe Recreation Path, a scenic and mostly fl at 5�-mile paved trail that skirts the shallow West Branch River. stowe.com

Play

HOT-AIR BALLOONING
Stoweflake Mountain Resort offers rides over the valley.
802-253-7355; stoweflake.com

UMIAK OUTFITTERS
Guides lead beginner-friendly kayak trips - one includes a winery stop - on the Lamoille River.
802-253-2317; umiak.com

Eat

CHEZ CLAUDINE
Terrific sustainable-minded Mediterranean dishes.
156 Mountain Rd.; 802-253-2033; dinner for two, $65

CLIFF HOUSE
A rustic lunch spot reached by gondola.
800-253-4754; lunch for two, $50

SMUGGLERS' NOTCH
A family-friendly all-inclusive

Just northwest of Stowe, "Smuggs" is a self-contained, all inclusive resort focused on keeping families - even those with hard-to-impress teens - entertained. This is accomplished quite handily with eight swimming pools, four waterslides, climbing towers and dozens of programs. Summer packages include camps for kids aged three to 17. (Nursery care is available for babies as young as six weeks.) The idea is that while the kids are amused, parents can golf, bike, hike, shop the weekly country market for local produce, or just loll about. It's a formula that works - and keeps families coming back summer after summer. 800-419-4615; smuggs.com

Play

ALL-TERRAIN FUN
Teens love the resort's 300 acres of offerings, including videography camps and mountainboarding (think all-terrain downhill skateboarding).

DRIVE THE NOTCH
Drive through Smugglers' Notch itself, a spectacular pass with 1,000-foot cliffs on both sides.

Eat

The resort's food runs from chicken fingers to candlelit, adults-only dining. For "off- campus" dining, head to nearby Jeffersonville.

158 MAIN
Delicious comfort food - meatloaf, shepherd's pie, turkey dinners - at a historic bakery.
158 Main St., Jeffersonville; 802-644-8100; dinner for two, $40

*Prices throughout are for a meal for two, without drinks, tax or tip.

Stay

RCI®affiliated resorts in Vermont's ski area include:

KILLINGTON TOWNHOUSES,
Killington

THE SEASONS RESORT,
Warren

MOUNTAINSIDE RESORT AT STOWE,
Stowe

SMUGGLERS' NOTCH RESORT,
Smugglers' Notch

For more information, visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476

OTHER NON-RCI-AFFILIATED HOTELS:

MOUNT SNOW

MOUNT SNOW GRAND SUMMIT HOTEL
A 200-room mountainside resort with an in-house biking and hiking center.
800-498-0479; mountsnow.com; doubles from $99

SNOW GOOSE INN
This white farmhouse turned 13-room inn sits on three wooded acres.
West Dover; 888-604-7964; snowgooseinn.com; doubles from $125

STRATTON

STRATTON LONG TRAIL HOUSE
Stratton village's newest condo complex has 75 units, from studios to five- bedrooms.
802-787-2886; stratton.com doubles from $150

THE EQUINOX
A grand old-line hotel set on 1,300 pristine acres. The 183-room resort and spa is minutes from Stratton.
Manchester Village; 800-362-4747; equinoxresort.com; doubles from $389

KILLINGTON

KILLINGTON GRAND RESORT HOTEL
Families can spread out in spacious units. The Killington Adventure Center is right next door.
Killington; 800-621-6867; killington.com; doubles from $126

BIRCH RIDGE INN
Charming A-frame inn, with 10 individually decorated rooms
800-435-8566; birchridge.com; doubles from $80

STOWE

STOWE MOUNTAIN LODGE
Guests of the new 139-room hotel get access to the members-only 18-hole Stowe Mountain Club golf course.
802-253-3560; stowemountainlodge.com; doubles from $435

STOWEFLAKE MOUNTAIN RESORT & SPA
An elegant 156-room resort at the foot of Mount Mansfield.
1746 Mountain Rd.; 800-253-2232; stoweflake.com; doubles from $226

SMUGGLER'S NOTCH

SMUGGLERS' NOTCH INN
This historic 11-room inn has a lively tavern and restaurant.
Jeffersonville; 802-644-6607; smuggsinn.com; doubles from $89

Published: Endless Vacation July/August 2008 Issue