Wyndham Wisdom

The Great Dells Escape

The summer mainstay for Midwesterners is now a year-round resort for everyone

Every summer for decades, Midwesterners from Chicago, Minneapolis and Milwaukee have loaded up the family car and blasted across the prairie to the Wisconsin Dells. The three million-plus annual visitors--lured to south-central Wisconsin by the siren song of roller coasters, water rides and cheesecake-on-a-stick--have helped establish the Dells as the quintessence of vacation kitsch. These days, the fun is no longer limited to summer. In the 1990s, several stadium-sized indoor water parks opened just south of downtown. And while most coasters and outdoor water parks operate only in the warmer months, many classic venues stay open year-round. To see them, drive north along the campy Wisconsin Dells Parkway, keeping an eye out for the massive Trojan horse, a looming lumberjack and a replica of the White House dumped upside down. And don't miss the glacier-carved bluffs and spires that drew visitors as far back as the 1850s. Even fudge-fueled kids will be impressed.

YOUR "CRUISE SHIP" AWAITS
In winter, temperatures around here can go below zero--which explains the growth of resorts with indoor
shops, water parks, mini-golf, spas and themed restaurants. Enthusiasts refer to the Dells' five big resorts as "dryland cruise ships"; each offers slightly different themes and water park rides. The following three have the biggest, newest and most innovative features.

Kalahari
As you step into the lobby of the African-themed Kalahari resort, you'll find dripping barefoot kids milling
around paint-your-own-pottery shops, glittering candy displays and occasionally a pet-the-live-tiger-cub exhibit. Of course, the centerpiece here is Wisconsin's largest indoor water park, with slides covering a range of adrenaline levels, from toddler-appropriate to scary vertical plummets. Try Wisconsin's only FlowRider, a surfable wave machine for those ready to lose their suits in front of an audience, and the
Master Blaster, a 570-foot-long roller coaster driven by bursts of rushing rapids. Fingers pruning? Just walk down a hallway into a brand new 100,000-square-foot indoor amusement park, where a two-story-high ropes course dangles over a mini-golf course, 200 arcade games, laser tag and bowling. The pièce de résistance is a six-story-high Ferris wheel surrounded by glass and facing I-90. Siren song, anyone? kalahariresort.com; 877-525-2427; water park day passes $34

Wilderness
Less than a mile from Kalahari, the Wilderness Resort's cabin-style accommodations contrast with its tropical-flavored Wild Water Dome. A transparent roof allows for year-round tanning and the giant wave pool pulses inner tubes like lagoon flotsam in a warm, naturally lit space. Follow the walkway next door to the Klondike Kavern, where older kids will dig the Hurricane, a four-person raft that ricochets down a giant funnel. There's also the Wild West Waterpark, with small slides for younger kids. Finally, back at the Dome, order a frosty beer and a bratwurst from your chaise while the kids pass out next to you. wildernessresort.com; 800-867-9453; overnight stay required for entrance: see STAY for prices

Chula Vista
On a quiet stretch of the Wisconsin River four miles down the road, Chula Vista Resort recently jumped on the family train with a $200-million renovation, adding an indoor water park and arcade with the area's longest water coaster and a play zone for little ones. Smaller than the other resorts, Chula Vista offers a more subdued scene, and its shops and restaurants are geared more toward the business Traveler (though children's menus are always available, of course). chulavistaresort.com; 608-254-8366; water park day passes $30

UP FOR AIR
While your swimsuits dry, head for the Wisconsin Dells Parkway. First stop: the retro science museum, Tommy Bartlett Exploratory, where robots lead you through semi-dilapidated interactive science displays, electricity experiments and, strangely, a room housing the actual core module of the Mir Russian Space Station. 560 Wisconsin Dells Pkwy.; 608-254-2525; tommybartlett.com; $12, under five free

When the ice melts (usually by late March), take a ride on the Original Wisconsin Ducks' fleet of WWII
amphibious vehicles. After speeding along an impossibly narrow track on the rumpled forest floor, the heavy steel ducks splash down into the cold Wisconsin River (dress accordingly!), then lumber back into the woods to their duck dock. 1890 Wisconsin Dells Pkwy.; 608-254-8751; wisconsinducktours.com; $23, $12 kids (6-11)

The Dells' historic downtown offers shops selling Native American goods, dinner theater and a virtual reality game called Wizard Quest with a 13,000-plus-square-foot fantasy labyrinth. 105 Broadway; 608-254-2184; wizardquest.net; $13, $11 kids (5-11)

Refuel on chocolate-covered cashew clusters at Goody Goody Gum Drop. 401 Broadway; 608-253-7983; goodygumdrop.com

THE REAL DELLS
In the 1880s, photographer H.H. Bennett captured the river's glacially sculpted sandstone formations when he shot his son Ashley jumping between spires at a formation called Stand Rock. The photo became famous and curious tourists followed. During Dells Boat Tours' two-hour river cruise, you can wander between tight sandstone-striated canyon walls. Kids will love the finale: A dog reenacts Ashley Bennett's leap across Stand Rock. 608-254-8555; dellsboats.com; from $17, $10 kids (6-11)

For a shorter option try the 30-minute Lost Canyon tour by horse drawn wagon. Naturalist guides have
a silly shtick targeted to kids. 720 Canyon Rd.; 608-253-2781; lostcanyontour.com; $9, $5 kids (4-11)

H.H. Bennett's cameras and his famous photo are on view at the H.H. Bennett Studio. Digital-age kids will marvel at the amount of stuff needed to take those early photographs. And you'll all get a sense of just how long tourism has lived in the Dells. 215 Broadway; 608-253-3523; hhbennettstudio.org; $7, $4 kids (5-17)

EAT

HIGH ROCK CAFE
The café overlooks downtown and serves varied and sophisticated seasonal fare--roasted butternut squash ravioli; a shrimp and bacon club sandwich. But it's still a family-friendly place. 232 Broadway; 608-254-5677; dinner for two, $60*

THE CHEESE FACTORY
A vegetarian restaurant in, yes, a former cheese factory, with a broad menu. Try the creamy Stroganoff and the Asian-inspired dishes, get the kids a real grilled-cheese sandwich, and check out the dessert display and soda fountain counter. 521 Wisconsin Dells Pkwy S.; 608-253-6065; dinner for two, $35

PAUL BUNYAN'S COOK SHANTY
Embrace the massive portions of a longtime Dells tradition with a gigantic stack of pancakes, hot buttermilk doughnuts and a "bowl" of sausage at this family favorite. 411 Wisconsin Dells Pkwy., 608-254-8717; breakfast for two, $20

* Prices cover a meal for two without drinks, tax or tip.

STAY

RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS IN THE WISCONSIN DELLS INCLUDE:

CHRISTMAS MOUNTAIN VILLAGE
PEPPERTREE AT TAMARACK
TIMBERS AT CHRISTMAS MOUNTAIN VILLAGE
WYNDHAM TAMARACK

For more information,
visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476