Wyndham Wisdom

Galveston, The Barrier Replublic

After 2008's Hurricane Ike, Galveston emerges as eclectic and intriguing as ever

By Kathryn Jones

Many cultures have drifted onto the shores of Galveston Island over the centuries--Spanish and French explorers, Italian immigrants, Canadian fur traders and Southern cotton merchants. The result is a cultural gumbo that blends Europe and the South. Add pirate booty, shipwrecks and sea storms, and this 27-mile-long barrier island starts to feel pretty different from the rest of Texas across the West Bay. The locals' nickname says it all: the "Republic of Galveston."

AFTER IKE
In September 2008, Hurricane Ike pounded Galveston for 12 straight hours. The seawall was ravaged; beaches were decimated. These days, some buildings are still boarded up and abandoned, but the island is back. (The entire island is within the Galveston city limits.) The beaches and seawall have been restored. Restaurants and hotels are open. Cruise ships have returned, along with a steady stream of tourists. One of Galveston's strengths is that it's not just beaches, although there are 32 miles of those. When you're not soaking in the Gulf's warm waters, you'll find plenty to do, from art tours to free ferry rides to a museum housed in a former oil rig.

SEA AND BE SEEN
Any visit to Galveston has to start at the seawall, which was built after a hurricane nearly wiped out the town in 1900. First head downtown to the Texas Seaport Museum (409-763-8808; tsm-elissa.org; $5) to see The Great Storm, a documentary on that hurricane. Though the seawall is playfully decorated with colorful murals, this 10-mile-long concrete barrier was such an engineering feat that it's listed in the National Register of Historic Places. But it's more than a formidable barrier. It has become Galveston's promenade, thronged with people from dawn to dusk--the place to see the sea and be seen. Pick a spot and watch surfers glide towards you on the waves. Or if you're ready for more aerobic entertainment, try pedaling a Surrey, a multiseat bike that can seat up to six. Rental shops abound on the seawall and the adjacent road, which is named, not surprisingly, Seawall Boulevard. This is the beach's "main drag," lined with restaurants, watering holes, hotels and souvenir shops selling shells and the inevitable T-shirts and beach gear.

BEAUTY FROM RUINS
In a variation of the lemons-into-lemonade bromide, Galveston has turned post-Ike wreckage--namely, dead tree stumps--into works of art. During the storm, a tidal surge of seawater killed thousands of the oak trees that shaded restored Victorian houses. Artists stepped in, carving the unsightly stumps into mermaids, pelicans, angels and more. One of the most memorable sculptures depicts a large gray dog with its paws hanging over a fence. People walking by often give it a wide berth, as if fearing the pooch might just vault the fence and give chase. The Galveston Island Visitors Center provides maps (2328 Broadway, in the carriage house at Ashton Villa; 409-797-5144; galveston.com/visitorscenter).

PYRAMID POWER
As you drive across the causeway to Galveston from the mainland, the first thing you see is a trio of glass pyramids. This is Moody Gardens, and when you're ready for a beach break, head to this grab bag of an attraction that includes an aquarium, rides and a functioning paddleboat (800-582-4673; moodygardens.com; day pass, $50). Start at the 10-story-tall Rainforest Pyramid, which houses an enormous rainforest full of orchids, anacondas and vivid macaws. The ongoing $25 million renovation will eventually include a new walkway up into the forest canopy.

At the adjacent Aquarium Pyramid, you can feel as if you're swimming with sharks as you walk through a transparent tunnel. All around you is water teeming with sharks, eels, sea turtles and tropical fish.

Indulge your curiosity at the Discovery Pyramid. "Forgotten Gateway" explores Galveston's history as a major port of entry to American immigration from 1845 to 1924. Elsewhere, experience movies and rides in theaters that use a wraparound screen and surround-sound systems, 3-D technology and special effects like wind, mist, lighting, leg ticklers and seat buzzers.

FOR THE BIRDS
Serious birders flock to Galveston to see more than 500 species, both migratory and local. You can get out on the water for some wildlife viewing aboard the Bolivar Ferry, a free, 18-minute ride between the east end of Galveston and Port Bolivar (409-684-5940; bolivarchamber.org). Amid gulf breezes, you'll probably spot a bottlenose dolphin or two, as well as brown pelicans and other seabirds. Just stay onboard for the return trip.

Once back on shore, make the short drive east on Seawall Boulevard to find another birding hotspot, Big Reef Nature Park. Its East Lagoon Nature Trail leads you through a natural tidal marsh environment. Still into multitasking? Watch the birds waiting to welcome incoming shrimp boats at Pier 19 while you dine on shrimp and other seafood specialties on the wharf. For maps and seasonal-species checklists, download the "Great Birding In and Around Galveston Island" brochure at galveston.com/birding.

MANSIONS & MUSEUMS
Galveston's founding families built grand mansions that stand today as stunning examples of survival. Menard House, Ashton Villa, the Moody Mansion and the Bishop's Palace are only a few of more than 2,000 buildings here that are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Start in the Silk Stocking District, a stunning collection of historic houses (many restored Victorians) between Broadway and Seawall Boulevard (silkstockinggalveston.org). Move on downtown to see the Strand, lined with late-19th-century Greek Revival and Italianate buildings with elaborate cast-iron storefronts. The Galveston Historical Foundation (409-765-7834; galvestonhistory.org) provides free walking maps.

The Ocean Star Offshore Drilling Rig & Museum (409-766-7827; oceanstaroec.com; $8) will attract the curious to a retired, jacked-up drilling rig docked at Pier 19 in the harbor. It tells the story of Texas's offshore oil and gas industry with models and interactive displays.

EAT

GAIDO'S
This upscale fish house is a Galveston institution, so book ahead or expect a wait. The dining room is all polished wood and white tablecloths, but it's the Gulf views that are worth noting. Try plump grilled sea scallops or oysters baked six different ways. The bar serves up killer mojitos. 3828 Seawall Blvd.; 409-762-9625; dinner for two, $75*

CLARY'S
For a taste of local flavor, try Clary's in an appealing spot overlooking Offats Bayou.The waiters wear tuxes and the restaurant feels old-fashioned in a comfortable way. Expect "semi-Cajun" dishes such as grilled oysters, stuffed flounder and seafood gumbo. 8509 Teichman Rd.;409-740-0771; dinner for two, $60

MILLER'S SEAWALL GRILL
Classic burgers and chicken-fried steak draw a lunch crowd at this classy yet casual restaurant. It's also one of the best places on the island to watch the sun risewhile tucking into an omelet, with orwithout shrimp. 1824 Seawall Blvd.,409-763-8777; breakfast for two, $20

YAGA'S CAFÉ
When shopping along the Strand, dive intoYaga's for juicy burgers, pizza, pasta anda lively pub ambiance. Live musicon weekends. 2314 Strand St.; 409-762-6676; lunch or dinner for two, $25

*Prices are for a meal for two, not including drinks, tax or tip.

STAY

RCI-affiliated resorts in Galveston include:

SILVERLEAF'S SEASIDE RESORT
This resort has access to a sandy beach on the Gulf of Mexico. Guests can fish,relax and enjoy great seafood in downtownGalveston, just 20 minutes away.
19320 W. San Luis Pass

Member Reviews:
"Joe's Crab Shack was fun and lively,with fresh seafood."
"You can't beat playing unlimitedmini-golf for free!"
"The beach is clean, with plenty ofseashells for children to collect."
"There is a very nice kiddie poolnext to the large pool that wereally enjoyed."

INVERNESS BY THE SEA
Located in Galveston right on the seawall, and close to the town's sights. Guestshave dazzling Gulf views from theirbalconies. 7600 Seawall Blvd.

Member Reviews:
"The kitchen was furnished with everythingyou could need."
"Away from the crowds but not so farthat you can't get to them in minutes."
"If you're a birder, you have the opportunityto observe many species here."

For more information, including more member reviews, visit RCI.com or call

Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476

Club Members, please call your specificClub or RCI telephone number.