Wyndham Wisdom

Hilton Head Forever

By Melissa Bigner

It's early evening on the northern tip of South Carolina's Hilton Head Island. The parking lot at Hudson's on the Docks is rimmed with marsh reeds, washed up after an uncommonly high tide on Skull Creek. Weathered shrimp boats strain, groan and creak against their lines.

"Daddy?" calls a little girl trailing her father toward the seafood dive. "What's that smell?" "It's the saltwater, honey," he answers. "It's the smell of being outside." "So," she says, "it's a good smell!"

That's Hilton Head Island in a nutshell: Vacationing families connecting--via scents, scenery and seafood--with the second-largest barrier island on the East Coast. And while most of the 2.5 million annual visitors tend to come during warmer months, they miss out on what might be the island's best time of year. After Labor Day and before spring break, the humidity drops, traffic trickles off, crowds thin and temperatures average in the 60s. Folks toss on fleece pullovers to walk the 12 miles of beaches; ride fat-tired, single-speed cruisers along epic bike paths; and hunker down at cozy oyster roasts. Sound good? Grab the Lowcountry winter uniform--flip-flops, khakis and light sweater--and come on out to Hilton Head.

GET YOUR BEARINGS
Hilton Head is a 45-mile drive north from Savannah, GA, and 110 miles south of Charleston, SC. In the early 16th century, the French and Spanish attempted to settle this fertile land. Its live-oak forests and rich soil made it an agrarian paradise; the many waterways facilitated shipping; and the proximity to the Eastern seaboard made it a prime outpost. But local tribes didn't entirely welcome those early visitors. Finally, in 1663 British sea captain William Hilton successfully claimed the island for England, giving plantation life its start.

During colonial times, farmers with British land grants used enslaved laborers to raise crops of rice, cotton and indigo. During the Civil War, Union forces established forts on the remote island and founded Mitchelville, a haven for freed slaves. At the war's end, former slaves were given land throughout the sparsely populated island. They farmed and fished in isolation here until the 1950s, when a new bridge connected Hilton Head to the mainland--and Charles Fraser dreamed up the groundbreaking Sea Pines resort.

Sea Pines was founded in 1956 as the first "eco-friendly" resort community in the United States. Fraser's then-novel idea was to preserve the area's flora and fauna and integrate vacationers (and golfers) into the land with as little intrusion as possible. That meant sculpting large communities of houses, hotels and condos; capping building height at the natural tree line; curving roads around centuries-old oaks; regulating building colors to blend into the landscape; burying power lines and restricting commercial signage; and limiting beachfront construction on the dunes.

Today, Hilton Head Island is a funky mix. Historical sites are scattered among the resort-community-and-golf-course descendants of Sea Pines; hotels butt up against huge swaths of preserved land, while shopping and dining strips flood the interior. A four-lane road encircles the island, with hideaway developments shooting off it like spokes. And here and there, humble vegetable plots thrive next to multimillion-dollar digs and modest, slouchy cottages alike.

HOW TO TACKLE THE ISLAND
"This is the most relaxing vacation I've had with my family--ever," says a woman making her way across Broad Creek by kayak. "It's the first time we've ever just chilled out, relaxing on the beach, me reading and the kids shelling, and all of us trying new things."
 
To score that same experience, you'll need a strategy. Hilton Head has 250-plus restaurants and two dozen golf courses, so it's crucial to narrow your field of vacation vision. For a family-flavored getaway (the island's specialty), first pick a place to stay. If you're flying in, look for flights to the Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport. And on your way to the island, stock up at the Publix in neighboring Bluffton (80 Baylor Dr.) to avoid the weekend crowds at island grocery stores.

Next, come up with your dream menu of outdoor activities. Hotels and resorts offer daily tours; ask for schedules when you check in. Or try Outside Hilton Head (outsidehiltonhead.com) for kayaking, boating, fishing and dolphin-cruising options. If you're not staying at a resort with beach access, you can hit the sand at several public access points. The most popular one is Coligny Beach Park, with ample parking and a brand-new area with restrooms, showers and more.
 
As for getting around, either bring your own bicycles or rent from Hilton Head Bicycle Co. (hiltonheadbicycle.com; from $27 weekly). And for the ultimate Lowcountry experience, don't miss exploring the Sea Pines Forest Preserve. This 605-acre wilderness oasis combines jungle-like expanses of native evergreen palms, live oaks and wax myrtles with lagoons populated by cranes and alligators. Powdery dirt roads traverse the gently sculpted site. Pick up a map at the info center hutch and head off by foot, bike or car--or on horseback. For a trail ride, sign up with Lawton Stables (lawtonstableshhi.com).

TIME TRAVEL
To play Indiana Jones, check out the Indian Shell Ring in Sea Pines. More than 4,000 years ago, Native American settlers are believed to have piled discarded oyster shells in a circle to form low walls around their village, now in the Sea Pines Forest Preserve. And on the island's northern tip you'll find the remains of Fort Mitchel. This moat-lined earthen mound relic of the Civil War was uncovered in the 1970s when construction crews were clearing land for a new restaurant. Today the Old Fort Pub (65 Skull Creek Dr.; dinner for two, $90*) serves up high-end Lowcountry staples like crab cakes with green tomato, sweet pepper relish and stone ground grits. Patrons waiting for a table can head next door for a self-guided tour of the fort remains.

One of the most vibrant local groups is the Gullah, a distinct African-American community that has retained much of its African heritage. To learn more about the Gullah's role in Hilton Head history, head to the Coastal Discovery Museum (coastaldiscovery.org; donation requested), then polish off your schooling at Harbour Town with a walk to the top of the Harbour Town Lighthouse (harbourtownlighthouse.com; $3). Its walls display historic photos and illustrations detailing Hilton Head's path to the present.

RAINY DAYS EQUAL SHOPPING (AND SPA) DAYS
Though outdoor activities are the main draw on Hilton Head, don't worry if the skies cloud over and open up. Not only are there regular chains (Target, Old Navy, Cost Plus World Market) and discount stores (T.J. Maxx, Marshalls, Stein Mart, Off 5th), but there are also two huge factory outlet centers in nearby Bluffton, with everything from Abercrombie & Fitch and the Gap to Coach. For something more local, visit the Gullah Flea Market (103 William Hilton Pkwy.) for a handmade sweetgrass basket. "Sewn" from indigenous marsh grass and palmetto fronds, these sweet-smelling vessels were integral in plantation life; they've been made by Gullah descendants for centuries.

If the island's live oaks and Spanish moss haunt you, check out Ben Ham's immense black-and-white images of Lowcountry landscapes (benhamimages.com) at places like the Camellia Art Gallery (camelliaart.com). And for some indoor R&R, head to a spa. The island's crown jewel is the Westin chain's Heavenly Spa, where an indigo massage soothes her while a heated golf-ball massage loosens him up before hitting the links next time the sun shines.

EAT

PALMETTO BAY SUNRISE CAFÉ
Tucked discreetly into the Palmetto Bay marina, this breakfast joint is where locals head for wake-up meals of shrimp hash, pancakes and eggs galore. 86 Helmsman Way; 843-686-3232; breakfast for two, $20*

SIGNE'S HEAVEN BOUND BAKERY & CAFÉ
Amid kooky décor, patrons gobble up Signe's fresh salads (try the chilled salmon), sandwiches, Swedish cookies and devilish desserts like Nutella pie. 93 Arrow Rd.; 843-785-9118; lunch for two, $16

HUDSON'S ON THE DOCKS
A fishing fleet--the largest on the island--brings in a daily bounty (shrimp, scallops, crab and fish) to this whitewashed cinder-block building. The staff can even arrange a Lowcountry oyster roast. 1 Hudson Rd.; 843-681-2772; dinner for two, $42

AQUA GRILLE & LOUNGE
Fish tanks, waterfalls and fountains decorate this swank new spot overlooking the Atlantic. Come for a drink (there's an extensive wine list) and live jazz, or dress up for a white-linen dinner of jambalaya or shrimp and grits. 10 N. Forest Beach Dr.; 843-341-3331; dinner for two, $80

RED FISH
Caribbean-Southern fusion is the name of the menu game here: Lobster mac 'n' cheese is offered alongside Boursin grits, jicama slaw, crab cakes with chipotle aioli, and guava-orange glazed ribs. 8 Archer Rd.; 843-686-3388; dinner for two, $70

WISEGUYS RESTAURANT & BAR
Lamb lollipops, seared tuna sliders, a crème brulée quartet and champagne shots? Add "serious cocktails" and you've got the island's hippest new eatery-slash-watering-hole. 1513 Main St.; 843-842-8866; dinner for two, $30

RIVER HOUSE RESTAURANT
Just west of Hilton Head in Bluffton, the Inn at Palmetto Bluff houses one of the best restaurants in the area. The kitchen favors nouveau renditions of local fare like duck, black grouper and farm-fresh vegetables. The formal dining room opens to a wide Southern-style porch with its own, more casual though plenty succulent menu. 476 Mount Pelia Rd., Bluffton; 843-706-6542; dinner for two, $65

*Prices cover a meal for two, not including drinks, tax or tip.

HOME COOKING
If you don't feel like dining out, here's where to find ingredients to cook up some island favorites (and where to order out).

Benny Hudson Seafood
Seasonal catch, fresh off the boat.
175 Squire Pope Rd.; 843-682-3474

The Fresh Market
Gourmet groceries for the epicurean.
890 William Hilton Pkwy.; 843-842-8332

TJ's Take & Bake Pizza Co.
Pizza made to order with organic ingredients.
11 Palmetto Bay Rd.; 843-842-8253

STAY

RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS ON HILTON HEAD INCLUDE:

CORAL REEF RESORT

PORT O'CALL

ISLAND LINKS BY CORAL RESORTS

CORAL SANDS RESORT

For more information,
visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476