Wyndham Wisdom

DINING IN: Dip By the Bay

Make your own San Francisco treat: Green Goddess dressing

By Regina Schrambling

Anyone forced to choose the traditional taste of San Francisco would have a hard time deciding between liquid and solid. The Bay Area is said to be the birthplace of the Mai Tai, the martini (arguably) and cioppino, the Italianesque seafood stew. But it's also home to the Hangtown Fry (a Gold Rush scramble of eggs, oysters and bacon), turkey tetrazzini, and celery Victor, dressed with tarragon vinaigrette. Not to mention sourdough bread, Ghirardelli chocolate and Rice-A-Roni, introduced here in 1958.

Luckily, San Francisco produced one more edible innovation that's both timeless and made for home cooking. Green Goddess dressing was first whipped up at the old Palace Hotel in 1923 to honor the actor George Arliss, who was starring in a play of the same name. It's rich, tangy and beautifully balanced, with a very light taste.

One of the reasons Green Goddess has survived as long as Thousand Island is that it works not only as a salad dressing but also as a dip, for either raw vegetables, cooked artichokes, crab or shrimp. That makes it a natural for teaming with all the great produce and seafood at the Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market, where you can also pick up the herbs.  To make it, you just need a blender or food processor. Score one for liquid San Francisco.

GREEN GODDESS DRESSING
1 2-oz. tin flat anchovies
1 whole scallion/green onion, coarsely chopped
½ cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
3 tbsp. coarsely chopped chives
1 tbsp. coarsely chopped fresh tarragon
3 tbsp. tarragon vinegar (or white wine vinegar)
1 cup mayonnaise
1 cup sour cream
Freshly ground white pepper to taste

Drain the anchovies; pat dry and place in blender or food processor. Add the scallion, herbs, vinegar, mayonnaise and sour cream. Process until smooth. Season with pepper to taste; add salt if needed. Put in a clean container and chill. Makes 1 pint.

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