Wyndham Wisdom
The Newest Riviera
By Mike Stevens
It's in Mexico, sure, but on the Pacific coast. Here's the lowdown on the laidback but luxe Riviera Nayarit
Three years ago there was no Riviera Nayarit--just a blissful 190-mile stretch of coastline north of Puerto Vallarta. But times and marketing plans change. The region's Riviera-fication comes after a decade of steady development, particularly in the south, that has transformed the coastline of the Mexican state of Nayarit into a major vacation destination. These days this upstart Riviera can out-pamper Vallarta, its better-known neighbor. But it's not just posh spas and mammoth all-inclusive resorts. A half-hour drive north takes you to ceviche stands and beachfront surf shacks. A half-hour farther and only dirt roads lead to pristine beaches . . . for now. Here's a primer on Mexico's newest Riviera.NUEVO VALLARTA
During the drive from Puerto Vallarta's airport, only the eagle-eyed will notice they're crossing the state line from Jalisco to Nayarit (pronounced "n-eye-ah-REET"). Indeed, many visitors to Nuevo Vallarta, at the southernmost end of the Riviera Nayarit, might remain blissfully unaware their entire vacation. And that's sort of the point of the massive (400-plus rooms) all-inclusive resorts found here. These self-contained retreats coddle frazzled guests with welcoming fruit drinks, decadent spa treatments, dance clubs and acres of pool (literally, at a few of the resorts). But the big draw is the wide beach, one of the best on Banderas Bay.
For those so inclined, Nuevo Vallarta is an ideal base for day trips to explore the Riviera Nayarit, whose best attractions are still in the first 50 miles or so. Expect to pay 240 pesos (around $22) for a cab ride to the towns of Punta de Mita or Sayulita. You'll pay even less for a ride to Playa Destiladeras, a beach favored by locals a few miles past the new multimillion-dollar marina at La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. If you want to stay closer, you can stroll north on the sand to take in town life at Bucervías. Fans of Mexican folk art should drop in at Jan Marie's Boutique (56 Lázaro Cárdenas).
PUNTA DE MITA
Moving north, Banderas Bay curls to a close at the exclusive Punta Mita development, on a gated peninsula that's home to a Four Seasons and a new St. Regis. A Ritz Carlton is in the works. If all goes as planned, Punta Mita will have the highest concentration of high-end hotels in Mexico by 2011. Those not ready to drop $475 a night can sneak a peek behind the gates by booking a treatment at the St. Regis's sultan-ready Remède Spa. The Puebla Hot Stone Treatment ($260) comes highly recommended. Still too pricey? Book a table at Las Marietas, the resort's casual lunch spot. You can savor the immaculate grounds while sipping cerveza (beer) and eating sea-fresh ceviche under a palapa.
In nearby Punta de Mita town, take a dip at Playa el Anclote, a lovely wading beach whose shallow water is calmed by rock jetties. (Surfers needn't worry; other sections have rideable waves.) The area was once the haunt of serape sellers and the like, but it's gone upscale along with its gated twin next door. That's evident at the beachside Café des Artistes del Mar, one of the best restaurants on Mexico's Pacific coast. Chef Thierry Blouet helped put Puerto Vallarta on the culinary map before turning his attention to the Riviera Nayarit in 2007. His innovative, French-influenced menu quickly earned accolades. Try the densely flavored tomato and onion confit tarte and the roasted sea bass topped with waves of sliced potatoes.
SAYULITA & SAN PANCHO
Long waves first began drawing surfers to Sayulita, 25 miles north of Puerto Vallarta, in the 1970s. Some early champions bemoan the proliferation of California and Oregon license plates, but most of today's visitors find that this funky surf town offers comfort (smoothies and Wi-Fi) without sacrificing its small-town Mexico charm. Development here runs on a more intimate scale than at Punta Mita. The biggest hotel, Villa Amor, has only 34 rooms, and colorful surf shacks line the beach. Longboarders and beginners should stick to the break on the right. Those seeking bigger waves might ask for directions to Playa Carricitos, a half-hour hike to the south. Pangas, the small open boats seen all over Mexico, shove off from Sayulita's beach on surfing trips to reef breaks and remote beaches (from $45). Be forewarned: The long ride can be rough. On your way back from the beach, pick up an espresso at Panino's Bakery on Calle Delfines, or try the town plaza's taco stands for something more substantial.
Sayulita has become something of a shopping destination as well. At the top of the boutique heap is Pachamama (6 Calle Delfines), run by a pair of stylish French wanderers who favor racy designs, quality pottery and subtle jewelry. Joyeria Sol (7 Calle Delfines) sells locally made jewelry that will get you noticed--in a good way--back home. La Hamaca Gallery (110 Calle Revolución), a Mexican folk art clearinghouse, carries everything from brightly painted ceramic figures to colorful throw pillows with bold patterns. Folk art collectors will want to check out the intricate Huichol beadwork at the nonprofit Galeria Tanana (8 Av. del Palmar). The gallery's sales help support a Huichol community center in the nearby Sierra Madre Mountains.
Up the road roughly 15 minutes is the small town of San Francisco, generally called San Pancho. For those searching for the Sayulita of lore, here's where to find it. That means fewer Americans, a handful of low-rise hotels and a wide-open beach where you can lunch under palapas. Anyone looking for the next San Pancho should head another five miles north to Lo de Marcos. The next Lo de Marcos? Rincón de Guayabitos. And so on northward up this new Riviera's luxuriously long coast.
VALUE
Sayulita surf shops have quality rentals, so leave your board at home to avoid sky-high air fees--Delta charges $300 each way.
EAT
LA LAGUNA TINO'S
This fun local favorite makes a killer Pescado Zarandeado, slow-grilled red snapper rubbed in spices. Km 1.2 off second entrance to Nuevo Vallarta; 011-52-322-297-0221; lunch for two, $40*
LAS MARIETAS
Ceviche and mole-stuffed chicken are the specialties here. Reservations required for non guests. St. Regis, Punta Mita; 011-52-329-291-5864; lunch for two, $60
CAFÉ DES ARTISTES DEL MAR
This 74-seat, sea-to-table restaurant delivers some of the best food to be found on Mexico's Pacific coast. Period. Punta de Mita; 011-52-329-291-5415; dinner for two, $110
ROLLIE'S
A friendly, eclectic joint that's a favorite breakfast spot, in part thanks to the smoothies. 58 Av. Revolución, Sayulita; 011-52-329-291-3075; breakfast for two, $24
RESTAURANTE EL DELFIN
This inspired culinary outpost in San Blas (two hours north of Nuevo Vallarta) is worth the drive. Cordon Bleu-trained Betty Vázquez González's standouts include a wonderfully light shrimp tartar with capers and coriander, and silky seafood soup given depth by smoky chiles. 106 S. Paredes, San Blas; 011-52-323-285-0112; dinner for two, $85
*Prices are in U.S. dollars, and cover a meal for two without drinks, tax or tip.
STAY
RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS ON THE RIVIERA NAYARIT INCLUDE:
MAYAN PALACE NUEVO VALLARTA, Nuevo Vallarta
GRAND VELAS INTERNATIONAL RESIDENCE,* Nuevo Vallarta
MARIVAL VACATION CLUB,* Nuevo Vallarta
THE GRAND MAYAN NUEVO VALLARTA, Nuevo Vallarta
*All-inclusive resort.
For more information, visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
