Wyndham Wisdom

Miami Turns up the Heat

A table-hopping tour of the city's best restaurants

Bright lights, big food: That's the reputation Miami has earned in culinary circles over the last decade. But for all the glitz, glamour and architectural drama (both on and off the plate), there's some serious cooking going on. Last year, the James Beard Foundation nominated two Miami chefs--Michelle Bernstein (of Michy's) and Jonathan Eismann (formerly of Pacific Time South Beach)--for Best Chef in the South. Diners come from all over the world for the annual South Beach Wine & Food Festival, sponsored by the Food Network. And the next two years will bring new outposts of famous brands by chefs Daniel Boulud, Alfred Portale and Laurent Tourondel. With such fierce competition, it took a slew of fabulous meals to find the top contenders--a tough job, but somebody had to do it.

BEST NUEVO LATINO:

CIELO GARDEN & SUPPERCLUB
This sexy supper club in the heart of Coconut Grove is co-owned by impresario Angel Sanchez of the neighboring club Oxygen. Don't be fooled by the sleek lines, silvery hues, velvet ropes and VIP lounges--this is more than a nightclub. At the elegantly set tables, diners savor flaky empanadas filled with ropa vieja (shredded steak) in savory Creole gravy, and a succulent pan-seared duck breast in tangy-sweet guava sauce. Executive chef Jorge Garcia and executive sous chef Tony Gomez make a great team, having cooked together since their Cordon Bleu days, while sushi chef Elijah Wiener heightens the menu with beauties like his Cielo Roll--a combination of churrasco, avocado and sweet plantain, dipped in chimichurri sauce. The refreshing Mediterranean ceviche is marinated in a flavorful brine of kalamata olives, tomatoes and basil. For dessert, cinnamon boniato churros are served with Godiva chocolate sauce--enough said.

3390 Mary St., Coconut Grove; 305-446-9060;
www.cielorestaurant.com; dinner for two, $150*

*All prices are for a meal for two, without drinks, tax or tip.

BEST HOTEL DINING:

AZUL AT THE MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MIAMI
With its gorgeous Biscayne Bay setting and Clay Conley's acclaimed food, Azul doesn't seem like a hotel restaurant--but the crackerjack Mandarin Oriental staff is a good reminder (as is the occasional piece of luggage rolling past). Conley, a Maine native, weaves his own background into Mediterranean and Asian flavors: his heavenly New England chowder is "revisited" with crisp clams, confit pork belly and malt vinegar; pan-seared Florida snapper comes with corn silk, polenta, sherried clam sauce and chorizo; fork-tender miso-marinated duck breast is accompanied by carrot sauce and miso butter. Cross the finish line with the Latin Trio: coffee-brownie flan, four-milk cake and rice pudding with sautéed mangoes.

500 Brickell Key Dr., Miami; 305-913-8354;
www.mandarinoriental.com; dinner for two, $225

BEST STEAKHOUSE:

BOURBON STEAK
Luminary chef Michael Mina has already lit up Las Vegas and Detroit with similar rooms, all designed by Tony Chi. This venture, the first restaurant open to the public in the ritzy Fairmont Turnberry Isle Resort & Club, covers an expansive 9,500 square feet; the glittering, glass-and-mirror theme makes it seem larger still. Even the servings--of dishes like the silky lobster-tail appetizer, wrapped in a crepe with Thai curry; or foie gras and pear sliders--are huge. But save room for the meats, poached in butter, olive oil or bacon fat before hitting the grill, and served with addictive duck-fat french fries or a potato puree with lobster, sour cream and onions. Your purse will be the only thing lighter when you walk out.

19999 W. Country Club Dr., Aventura; 786-279-6600;
www.michaelmina.net; dinner for two, $225

BEST FOR FAMILIES:

MICHAEL'S KITCHEN
Chef Michael Blum, who wears a tie-dyed T-shirt and a visor in his open kitchen, calls his place, "The Cure for Boring Food." The lively eatery, in the revamped Newport Beachside Hotel & Resort, appeals to diners of all ages with appetizers like lemon-and-salt-infused popcorn shrimp in a movie-theater-style box. But don't worry--Blum matches whimsy with quality, evident in his more sophisticated dishes like plum-glazed cedar salmon over Vietnamese noodles. Sure, he says it's served "on fire and still smoking," but the fish is perfectly cooked despite the, uh, smokescreen. Don't leave without a deep slice of Rice-Krispy-treat pizza with raspberry jam, shaved white chocolate and berries.

16701 Collins Ave., Miami Beach; 305-749-2110;
www.michaels-kitchen.com; dinner for two, $150

BEST SOUTH BEACH SCENE:

MAISON D'AZUR AT THE ANGLER'S
Reservations are strongly encouraged at this stunning seafood brasserie, comprised of a series of indoor and outdoor "salons." DJ Bruno Salaün, imported from St. Tropez, spins seductive French jazz and British electronica until 1 a.m. while South Beach glitterati (and tourists trying to resemble them) drink champagne. The Côte d'Azur- inspired fare focuses on fish flown in daily from around the globe: Mediterranean branzino, plush Dover sole, Tasmanian ocean trout and sardines from Brittany. There's also a caviar bar. Service is friendly once you're seated, but take note: You'll pay for this privilege (an extra tip to the host will help get you a table faster).

660 Washington Ave., Miami Beach; 305-534-9600;
www.maisondazur.net; dinner for two, $225

BEST INDOOR/OUTDOOR DINING:

LA MAREA
Located on tourist-friendly Ocean Drive at The Tides South Beach, this lovely spot (the name is Italian for "ebb and flow of the tide") has a tiered Art Deco patio with ocean views. Early in the day, sit under an umbrella for chef Pietro Rota's fresh fruit and vegetable "organic juice therapy," and for Maine lobster eggs benedict spiked with hot sauce. At sunset, suck on a martini popsicle while you nibble nuts and olives. Then head into the Kelly Wearstler-designed dining room, lined with faux tortoise shells and twisting coral-like sculptures, to sample Rota's famously simple, yet not simplistic, take on sea bass and whole dorade--grilled, roasted or steamed, and accompanied by a selection of sea salts and olive oils.

1220 Ocean Dr., Miami Beach; 305-604-5070;
www.tidessouthbeach.com; dinner for two, $125

BEST NEW DESIGN DISTRICT BISTRO:

BROSIA
Artful cuisine served in a large outdoor lounge surrounded by oak trees and gorgeous wall mosaics--it's a perfect fit for midtown Miami's Design District, with its abundance of studios, galleries and design stores. Chef Arthur Artiles's simple plating arrangements belie his slow-cooking tech-niques and artfully layered spicing. His ground-lamb appetizer is shaped on the skewer, grilled, then served with palate-cooling tzatziki; the juicy duck leg is lacquered with pomegranate glaze and partnered by a lentil salad. Artists, writers and musicians gather here for casual meals after a show or opening; it's a great spot for people-watching.

163 NE 39th St., Miami Design District; 305-572-1400;
www.brosiamiami.com; dinner for two, $100

BEST RESERVATION WORTH WAITING FOR:

MICHAEL'S GENUINE FOOD & DRINK
Chef-owner Michael Schwartz has lots of fans: He acquired a loyal following at Nemo on South Beach, where he got his start in 1992, and Esquire recently named this one of the best new restaurants in the nation. So even if you've reserved, you'll most likely have to wait for a table on weekends, preferably at the bar, sipping a creamy Left Hand Milk Stout beer. Many of the dishes are cooked on a wood-burning stove, and the menu lists different-sized plates. Try the sweet onion stuffed with a lush mix of ground lamb and apricots; falling-apart Berkshire pork shoulder with Anson Mills cheese grits and a sauce of pickled red onion and parsley; and whole snapper, its flesh supple and juicy, stuffed with grilled lemon, roasted fennel, fennel pollen and smoked fleur de sel. Longtime collaborator Hedy Goldsmith provides complex desserts like candied Granny Smith-apple and walnut-streusel panini with crème fraîche caramel sauce--also worth waiting for.

130 NE 40th St., Miami Design District; 305-573-5550;
www.michaelsgenuine.com; dinner for two, $100

BEST AESTHETIC:

DOMO JAPONES
Take a historic post office with a soaring ceiling and recessed windows, paint it in cream and dark brown tones, hang contemporary art, and you've got an exciting loft restaurant. The minimalist design, not quite Asian, is a nice change from Miami's other Japanese parlors. The food, too, is bracing: black edamame sautéed in sweet, citrus soy sauce; ramen noodles with Berkshire pork belly and an organic egg (filling but delicious); and an unusual eel-coconut sushi roll with avocado and a balsamic soy reduction--the sharp acids replace the sugary taste you're expecting. The upstairs loft is a sleek yet cozy bar.

4000 NE 2nd Ave., Miami; 305-573-5474;
www.domojapones.com; dinner for two, $100

COMING SOON: Philippe Chow at the Gansevoort South, One Bleu at the Regent Bal Harbour, Mint Leaf in Coral Gables, Tao on Lincoln Road.

BEST DOWNTOWN PRIX FIXE:

DOLORES BUT YOU CAN CALL ME LOLITA
With a name so precious, you might expect the same of the attitude and food. But while the hostess can be stern (well, if you have no reservation), the restaurant itself is surprisingly accommodating. The outdoor lounge is perfect for people-watching in trendy Mary Brickell Village; the upstairs dining room is quiet and romantic; and the rooftop patio is the place to see and be seen. The menu is divided into entrées priced at $18 or $23, each of which comes with your choice of appetizer; the food is mostly South American with some global influences. The $18 list includes tender short-rib ravioli in beef ragout and sea-salted wild salmon with vinaigrette tomatoes; the $23 list has Brazilian picanha steak in a Cabernet Sauvignon reduction and poached sea scallops in mango vinaigrette. It's a great deal in a town that has fewer and fewer to spare.

1000 S. Miami Ave., Miami; 305-403-3101;
www.doloreslolita.com; dinner for two, $50

STAY

RCI®-affiliated resorts near Miami include:

GOLDEN STRAND OCEAN VILLA RESORT,
Sunny Isles Beach

COSTA DEL SOL RESORT,
Lauderdale-by-the-Sea

WINDJAMMER RESORT & BEACH CLUB,
Lauderdale-by-the-Sea

For more information, visit www.RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476

NON-RCI-AFFILIATED MIAMI HOTELS:

THE CONRAD MIAMI
1395 Brickell Ave., Miami;
305-503-6500;  www.conradhotels.com;
doubles from $309

FAIRMONT TURNBERRY ISLE RESORT & CLUB
19999 W. Country Club Dr., Aventura;
305-932-6200; www.fairmont.com;
doubles from $459

GANSEVOORT SOUTH
2377 Collins Ave., South Beach;
305-604-1000; www.gansevoortsouth.com;
doubles from $580

MANDARIN ORIENTAL
500 Brickell Key Dr., Miami;
866-888-6780; www.mandarinoriental.com;
doubles from$379

MAYFAIR HOTEL & SPA
3000 Florida Ave., Coconut Grove;
800-433-4555; www.mayfairhotelandspa.com;
doubles from $229

Published: Endless Vacation May/June 2008 Issue